The spacing of recessed LED spots
The wall proximity and inter-spot distance rule, in centimetres
Poorly spaced LED spots turn a ceiling into a runway or a badly lit block of holes. Three simple rules avoid both pitfalls.

§ 01The principle
Recessed LED spots have become the most common solution for general lighting, especially in kitchens, bathrooms, hallways and studies. Their success lies in their discretion: they disappear into the ceiling and create no visual obstacle.
But their spacing is critical. Badly positioned, they create either an airport runway effect (too many, too aligned, aggressive light), or a Swiss cheese effect (poorly distributed, abrupt dark zones).
Three simple rules cover the majority of cases: distance between spots, distance from the wall, number per square metre.

Distance between spots: 1 to 1.5 m · Distance from wall: 50 to 80 cm · Density: approximately 1 spot per m²
A regular grid, never aligned on furniture, always on the room's geometry.
§ 02Putting it into practice
1. Distance between two spots: 1 to 1.5 m. The higher the ceiling, the greater the gap can be. Ceiling at 2.4 m: keep 1 m apart. Ceiling at 3 m: you can go to 1.5 m. Beyond 1.5 m, you create dark zones between spots.
2. Distance from the wall: 50 to 80 cm. Never place a spot flush against the wall (under 30 cm), it would create a brutal cone of light that dazzles rather than illuminates. At 60 cm from the wall on average, the spot lights both the floor and the upper portion of the wall, without excess.
3. Density: approximately 1 spot per m². A 12 m² kitchen will need 10 to 12 spots, a 6 m² bathroom will need 6 to 8. This density is for uniform general light. For task zones (worktop, mirror), dedicated spots must be added.
4. Choose the beam angle. LED spots come in several angles: 24° (narrow, accent), 38° (standard, versatile), 60° and above (wide, ambient). For general lighting, stay with 38°. The 24° is reserved for accenting (an artwork, a niche). The 60° suits low rooms where you want diffuse light.
5. Align on the room's geometry, not on the furniture. Trace a regular grid on the ceiling, based on the walls. Avoid "centring" a spot above the island or sofa, except if it is a dedicated accent spot. Furniture can move, the ceiling will not.
- 01Mark out the grid on the floor before drilling
- 02Respect a minimum distance of 60 cm from the wall
- 03Use 38° spots for general lighting
- 04Align on the room's geometry, not on furniture
- 01Placing a spot under 30 cm from a wall
- 02A single central row of spots, runway effect guaranteed
- 03Spacing spots more than 1.5 m apart, dark zones guaranteed
- 04Mixing beam angles at random without logic
§ 03Professional variations
Interior designers often specify adjustable spots in their project briefs, more expensive than fixed spots but allowing light to be redirected after delivery (toward an artwork, toward a moved table, etc.). The price difference is offset by the flexibility.
A sophisticated practice: mixing fixed spots (general) and adjustable spots (accent) in the same room. Fixed spots in a regular grid provide the base light, adjustable ones (10-15% of the total) accent artworks and interesting volumes.
In highly refined projects, Joseph Dirand specifies "trimless" or flush-fitting spots, with no visible border. The spot seems to disappear completely into the ceiling, leaving only a circle of light. High cost (3 to 5 times a standard spot), but pure architectural effect.
A regular grid, never a single row, and the ceiling becomes a ceiling again.
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